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Cassata fiorentina


Credevo che a Firenze non fosse mai esistito un dolce tipico del Natale (a parte il Pane di Natale che feci l'anno scorso, che però è chiantigiano). Sbagliavo. In realtà per molti anni è esistito. È la cassata fiorentina, che non ha nulla a che fare con quella siciliana. Una spessa copertura di cioccolato fondente riveste 5 strati: cialda di wafer, pasta di nocciola, cialda di wafer, ancora pasta di nocciola e cialda di wafer. Questo è il dolce che ho scelto per il tema del mese dell'Italia nel piatto, un gruppo che finalmente è riuscito ad avere rappresentanti di tutte le regioni italiane. Siamo finalmente 20! Oggi, però, ho sostituito Marianna di "Fior di pistacchio" per il Piemonte, perciò, contemporaneamente a questo post, esce anche la mia Coppa sabauda.


Il tema è natalizio, esattamente "Natale, doni di gusto". Per doni intendiamo sia ciò che può essere confezionato e donato, sia ciò che può essere messo in tavola per deliziare la vista e il palato dei commensali. Nel caso che si voglia presentare questa cassata fiorentina come un dono, si potranno fare versioni più piccole da impacchettare, per esempio una monoporzione (foto sotto), che comunque non ho mai visto in vendita, ma ho creato per l'occasione servendomi di uno stampo in silicone.


La Cassata Fiorenza è brevettata dalla ditta Fiore, perciò la ricetta è segreta; la mia cassata fiorentina, che ovviamente non può fregiarsi del nome di "Cassata Fiorenza", si basa sulle percentuali di componenti che ho letto nella confezione che ho acquistato: cioccolato fondente (57%), ripieno di nocciole e zucchero (38%), wafer (5%). Mi ha aiutato nel procedimento quanto ha raccontato Barbara C., un'ex dipendente della "Fiorenza, cioccolato di Firenze" (altra ditta che la produceva una cassata, evidentemente), nel commento a un post di un blog di un'altra persona (qui) che, fra l'altro, contiene una cassata totalmente diversa. Dopo la ricetta e il procedimento, accennerò alla storia di questo dolce.

INGREDIENTI

Per la copertura di cioccolato:
Cioccolato fondente (almeno 70% di cacao): 285 g
Olio e.v.o. delicato: 1 cucchiaio (aggiunta mia, per lucidare e ammorbidire il cioccolato)

Per la pasta di nocciole:
95 g di zucchero a velo
95 g di nocciole pelate e leggermente tostate
1 cucchiaino di amaretto (liquore alle erbe e mandorle amare, in realtà occorrerebbe l'essenza di mandorla amara)

Per le cialde (se non trovate 3 cialde rotonde già pronte):
40 g di albume (da un uovo grande)
40 g di zucchero a velo
20 g di semola di grano duro
15 g di burro fuso
1 punta di cucchiaino di vaniglia Bourbon
1 pizzichino di sale

OCCORRENTE (nel mio caso, cioè per un'altezza di circa 2,3 cm e diametro 16 cm, ma l'originale è alta 1,5 per un diametro di 20 cm):
1 stampo in silicone o teglia a cerniera di 16 cm di diametro
1 anello o stampo di 15 cm di diametro


PROCEDIMENTO

– Fare le cialde (se non si hanno quelle pronte; ne verranno forse più di tre, ma è sempre meglio averne di più): sbattere leggermente albumi, sale e vaniglia, aggiungere burro fuso e farina e lasciar riposare 30 minuti. Versare cucchiai di pastella in una cialdiera con scanalature non profonde, se possibile, o in appositi stampi (per esempio Tescoma) in forno ventilato a 150° C per circa 15 minuti. Prima che le cialde si secchino, tagliarle in cerchi della misura del vostro anello o stampo.

– Tritare le nocciole con qualche colpo di mixer (perché non si riscaldino), aggiungere progressivamente lo zucchero a velo, finché il composto passerà da uno stato farinoso ad una vera e propria pasta spalmabile. Unire l'amaretto.

– Disporre dentro all'anello (o stampo più piccolo) una cialda, metà pasta di nocciole, un'altra cialda, l'altra metà di pasta di nocciole e la terza cialda. Mettere in frigo a raffreddare.

– Fondere a bagnomaria 3/4 del cioccolato fondente. Unire alla fine, a fuoco spento, l'olio e il resto del cioccolato grattugiato, tenuti in frigo. Con questo contrasto di temperatura, si può evitare di temperare il cioccolato (per avere una copertura lucida). Amalgamare con una spatola ben fredda.

– Versare il cioccolato fuso nello stampo più grande per un'altezza di circa 3/4 mm e mettere in frigo. Mantenere il resto dello cioccolato allo stato fuso.

– Estrarre dal frigo e dall'anello (o stampo) il composto a strati di cialde e nocciole e deporlo sopra lo strato di cioccolato solidificato nello stampo più grande. Versare il cioccolato fuso fino a riempire il contorno e a coprire la superficie superiore con uno spessore di qualche millimetro.

– Far raffreddare ed estrarre dallo stampo. Se lo stampo non fosse a cerniera, ma in silicone, occorre far solidificare bene in freezer.

A questo punto la cassata si può lasciare così com'è, oppure decorarla come ho fatto io con riccioli di cioccolato e con una pennellata di cioccolato fuso sui bordi. Ho aggiunto al centro un giglio (simbolo di Firenze), fatto con cioccolato bianco fuso colato in uno stampo.

Ed ora, un po' di storia. Più che storia, forse leggenda, perché le notizie sulla cassata Fiorenza sono in parte incerte e contraddittorie.


CASSATA FIORENZA attualmente in commercio, qui nella pezzatura da 500 g

Nei primi del ’900 questa cassata, insieme ad altri dolciumi e biscotti, veniva prodotta e distribuita da una ditta fiorentina, la Digerini Marinai & C. (come si racconta qui), già attiva almeno dal 1891 ed ancora esistente nel 1949 (ricerca fatta qui), che consegnava le sue prelibatezze al domicilio dei clienti, servendosi di una carrozza trainata da un cavallo da tiro (foto qui). La Digerini Marinai ebbe lo stabilimento di produzione prima in via Aretina, poi in via Piagentina, nonché un grande negozio per la rivendita in un palazzo nel centro di Firenze, in via dei Vecchietti, 11 (per foto e documenti della ditta vedi qui).

Sembra tutto chiaro e invece non saprei proprio come collegare queste notizie sulla Digerini Marinai a quanto si dice in un articolo comparso nel 1992 su un numero dell'Espresso (vedi qui, visualizzazione snippet, ma, con pazienza sono riuscita a recuperare tutto l'articolo): "La cassata Fiorenza nasce nel 1930 da Umberto Ciampi, e diviene presto un simbolo di Firenze. Negli anni ’50 e ’60, al culmine della fortuna, il suo classico incarto blu e oro accompagnava immancabilmente il ritorno a casa del turista. La scomparsa del suo inventore ne segna il declino, e la scomparsa dal mercato". Questo Umberto Ciampi ha qualcosa a che fare con Digerini e Marinai? Chissà.

L'articolo prosegue dicendo che nel 1991 una ditta specializzata in dolci tradizionali senesi (panforte, ricciarelli, cavallucci, copate), l'azienda Fiore (Monteriggioni, SI), ha riesumato il brevetto della cassata Fiorenza (vedi qui). Attualmente però in entrambe le confezioni in vendita, da 500 g e da 270 g, non compare la ditta Fiore, ma, sul retro, "Le dolcezze di Siena Srl" di Montevarchi (AR), produzione e confezione a Rocca S. Casciano (che è in provincia di Forlì-Cesena!). A complicare ancora di più le cose si legge sul davanti "Fabbrica di cioccolato affini La Toscana, Firenze" (!). Ma non è finita qui: leggendo un articolo del blog "Progressive is food" di Ilaria Spinelli, ho avuto notizia che il laboratorio che la produceva negli anni '50, quasi '60 era in via Reginaldo Giuliani; interessante l'ipotesi che il nome cassata, insolito per un dolce toscano, derivi dal fatto che il wafer veniva fatto da monache di clausura di origine siciliana.

Per altre notizie su questo dolce, devo ringraziare un maestro cioccolataio aretino, Daniele Vestri, che ha un negozio anche a Firenze (Borgo degli Albizi 11 rosso, vedi qui il sito con le sue meraviglie), la cioccolateria e gelateria Vestri. Ecco la sua cassata, comprata, portata a casa, fotografata e divorata in brevissimo tempo. Ovviamente è diversa da quella brevettata, la Cassata Fiorenza.



Prima che la ditta Fiore ‘rispolverasse’ il brevetto della cassata Fiorenza c’era chi a Firenze produceva una cassata simile. Così mi ha detto il Signor Vestri. Era il Gran Caffè Doney, brevemente detto Doney’s, un locale storico, fondato da un ufficiale francese, che fin dall’Ottocento era divenuto punto di ritrovo per intellettuali, letterati, per l’alta società fiorentina e per gli stranieri, soprattutto inglesi, in visita a Firenze. Nel 1986 il locale fu chiuso per far posto a uno dei soliti negozi di abbigliamento di lusso di via Tornabuoni, che hanno cancellato altri locali storici.

Daniele Vestri mi ha raccontato di aver imparato proprio da Doney come fare questa cassata fiorentina, quando era un ragazzino. Come si vede, la cassata Vestri è molto più bassa della Cassata Fiorenza brevettata e, vi assicuro, molto più buona, croccante, adattissima per un dono natalizio, anche perché è più piccola (150 g, poco più grande di un CD) ed è fatta con una cialda più consistente e fragrante e con una copertura di cioccolato più sottile e di qualità superiore. La crema di nocciole del ripieno contiene anche cacao.


Non ho neanche provato a cimentarmi con questo capolavoro di Vestri; senza conoscerne ricetta e procedimento, sarei rimasta sicuramente delusa. Ho preferito provare a riprodurre la Cassata Fiorenza della ditta Fiore o "Le dolcezze di Siena", per vedere se riuscivo a ovviare a quelli che mi sono apparsi dei difetti, o comunque aspetti non gradevoli al mio gusto: l'odore di lecitina di soia all'apertura e il rivestimento di cioccolato troppo duro, che non facilita il taglio. Ma può essere che ciò dipenda dalle condizioni di conservazione all'interno del negozio dove l'ho acquistata.

Mi piace concludere con questa immagine di lavoratrici intente nella produzione di dolciumi presso la ditta Digerini Marinai oltre un secolo fa. Non sembra di sentire ancora il profumo di cioccolato?

Foto Alinari presa da qui

Per altre foto d'epoca, vedi qui.



http://litalianelpiatto.blogspot.it/

E per finire, eccoci qua, tutte le regioni italiane, finalmente, con i loro 'doni di gusto' natalizi!


Valle d’Aosta, Tegole e fiocca
Lombardia, La crema lodigiana
Trentino-Alto Adige, Lebkuchen
Veneto, La fregolotta
Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Putizza
Umbria, Tozzetti
Marche, Frustingo
Abruzzo, Il Parrozzo 
Basilicata, Le pettole lucane

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  4. Uau!!!!!!! CHe dolce! Mi fai venire voglia di mettermi subito a fare cialde e a fondere il cioccolato. Inoltre è bellissimo e la versione mini è spettacolare. Bravissima e grazie per la tua ricetta.

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